Some people may be put off sipping their pints with a giant stuffed deer looming over their table like it’s listening into – and judging – their conversation, so credit to the Pete and Dud looky-likies who continued undeterred when I visited The Railway Telegraph in Forest Hill.

There are a few non-standard features that made The Railway Telegraph unique, presumably the result of the recent quarter of a million pound makeover.

It’s money that has gone a long way. From the outside, the lighting and white paintjob make arriving feel a bit like you’ve just reached Camelot while inside is exceedingly tidy. 

Originally opened in 1853, the polite waistcoated and sideburned barman combined with decorative touches like the divisive taxidermy, wood burner and vintage furniture might make you feel like it still is.

The menu is loosely inspired by Victorian cook Mrs Beeton and, to be honest, it was a bit much.

I don’t want bone-marrow-this or prunes-with-that. What I wanted – and had – was a burger.

Unusually for a chicken burger, it was properly shaped into a patty and well flavoured with chorizo. 

The chips came in a mug, while vinegar came in an atomiser and we were given a clean, folded tea towel rather than a napkin. How very kitsch.

While much of this probably makes it sound like another hipster paradise for a town already well accustomed to an ironic beard, The Railway Tavern had a resolutely normal bunch of regulars, who presumably are a bit amused but not put off by the tarting up of their watering hole. 

The Railway Telegraph, Stanstead Road, Forest Hill

Atmosphere **** Friendly 

Decor ***** Very pretty

Drink **** A good range of Shepherd Neame beers

Food *** Tasty

Staff ***** Friendly, polite and exceedinly well turned out.

Price *** Middling